Pilgrimage to Sabarimala Ayyappa Temple. 17th Dec 2004

 
Sabarimala is situated in the western Ghats mountains at an elevation of  4135 feet above sea level. The temple is open to males and menopaused females (beyond 50 years of age) and little girls below 10 years of age irrespective of religion or nationality. Ayyappan is a Yogi (Saint) and hence these restrictions. By belief he is the son of Shiva and Mohini (Vishnu in female form).
 
The male pilgrims are called 'Ayyappan' and the female pilgrims are called 'Malikappuram'. The pilgrims undergo 41 days of fast to cleanse the mind. He wears black or blue cloths and a garland of Mint or Rudraksha. Personal adornments, hair cutting, shaving, etc are taboo. Total abstinence from all vices like alcohol, tobacco, non-vegetarian food and sex is stipulated. Simple living, absolute cleanliness and holy thoughts are the mainstay of the period. With out proper fasting and it is forbidden to visit the temple or climb the holy 18 Steps. A fasting of at least 41 days must be undertaken so that physical fitness and mental conditioning are achieved before the arduous trek.
 
The devotees carries bundle called "Irumudi" . Irumudi is divided into two parts.  The front portion is meant for stocking pooja articles such as coconuts filled with cow ghee, camphor, unboiled rice, plantain (kadali), aval (flattened rice), pori, sandal paste incense sticks, vibhuti (sacred ash), kumkum (vermilion), turmeric powder, jaggery, kalkkandom (candied sugar) etc. The rear pouch of the Irumudi Kettu contains consumable edible items which are used by the pilgrim for his personal sustenance during the journey to Sabarimala and back. Minimal bedding like blankets or bed sheets can also be carried. These can be used as a cushion on the head.
 

Ettumanoor Shiva Temple.

 

Mural paintings at Ettumanoor - Vishnu laying on Serpent Ananda.

 

 

 

Sarpagandhi - An interesting flower in a temple compound.

 

Ayyappan was a prince of  Pandhalam in Southern Kerala who united all the martial art schools in Kerala to defeat the pirates in Arabian sea and robbers in the Western Ghats. He was considered to be the incarnination of  Shasta. Vavar was a pirate from Arabia and later became a close friend of Ayyappa to defeat the robbers in Western Ghats. The devotees visit Vavar's mosque at Erumeli.

 

Petta Thullal in front of Vaver's mosque at Erumeli.

 

In Erumeli devotees perform "Petta Thullal" (frenzied dancing) accompanied by drums. The drums and musicians can be hired there. The pilgrims smear color on their faces and bodies and carry the replicas of ancient weapons. It is said that smearing of colours and taking part in this sort of a dance is a symbolic step towards shedding one's ego which is an essential pre-requisite before undertaking the pilgrimage. it  is obligatory for all first time Ayyappans. By history, it remembers the preparation of a guerrilla warfare.

During Petta Thullal, first time devotees carry a wooden arrow. This arrow is retained by them till they reach the proximity of Sabarimala temple. Goddess Malikapurathamma, whose temple also at the location is in eternal wait for the lord to marry her. Ayyappan has promised to marry her when there are no fresh devotees. The arrows of fresh devotees were struck to the Banyan tree. Now the tree is no more and the arrows are dropped there as a proof of fresh devotees

 

Muslim women selling colors and arrows to the devotees at Erumeli.

 

 

From Erumeli we proceed to Pamba and took bath in the river and began the trek.

 

The 18 steps covered with gold.

 

Devotees break coconut at the side and carried up by police men through the steps. I could hardly touch 3 / 4 steps only. 125,000 devotees visit the temple in a day in the season. The temple is open for 16 hours a day. In one second two devotees are passed in front of Ayyappan.

 

The inner temple plated with gold.

 

The Ghee (melted butter) - representing the soul - filled in the coconuts are given to the temple to pour on the idol. The rest of Coconut is thrown to the sacred fire place.

 

 

During certain astronomical zodiac cycles in ones life time, individuals are said to fall under the predominant influence of the Planet Saturn. This could mean bad results. Hindus conduct many ritual to remove this bad affect. Ayyappa is the lord of Saturn. By pleasing the lord one could reduce the bad affects of Saturn. One of such rituals is conducted at Malikappuram Temple. These Velans praise the lord accompanied by the drums for the devotees.

 

A police man advising a devotee from Tamilnade not to have fire in the crowd.

 

Coming back

 

He took only a few seconds to make the decision to have tattoo of Ayyappan on his hand.

 

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